Ma Ganga (Mother Ganges) is the holiest river of India, and one of the most sacred waterways in the world. Here in Varanasi, the ghats are usually packed with pilgrims as they take their ritual baths at dawn. But on a secluded ghat south of Varanasi's old town, I found a woman sitting serenly on a small dock, watching the sun rise to the east. A rare moment of peace in India.